Jewelry for Tribal Elegance II

Emerald Vaseline Glass Necklace

This necklace is created from a strand of faceted emerald glass beads, special in their gradation of size. Made in Bohemia in the 1800's, partly mold-faceted, partly hand-faceted, they’re commonly known as ‘Vaseline’ beads because the earliest ones produced were lime-green in color and had the look of petroleum jelly. The variety of hues and variance in wear indicate the age of the beads, the smoothest ones being the oldest.

The Dutch white glass rings from the late 19th century are called ‘Dogon Donuts’, named after the Dogon people of Mali who fancied their simplicity and wore them for status and ceremony. Ethiopian silver tubes are used for the double-strand extensions, embellished with small green 'watermelon chevron' beads from the early 20th century, and an 1800's Chinese quartz bead for the fastener - an elegant modern look, n'est-ce pas?


Copalite & Vaseline Bead Necklace

Copalite beads came about as the demand for real amber exceeded the supply. Developed in a process that uses copal resins, these beads were made in Mauritania in the early 1900s. The amber colored ‘cornerless cube’ beads come from late 1800s Venice, a variation of the lime-green, faceted beads that were the original ‘vaseline’ beads, named for the color’s resemblance to petroleum jelly.

The ochre-yellow and terracotta 'chevrons' are from Murano, Italy, in an unusual color combination of earth tones, from the early 20th century. The term ‘chevron’ refers to beads that are drawn in layers of glass that reveal colors beneath the surface. The small, yellow ‘white hearts’ are from the early 20th century. The necklace can be doubled or wore as as a single long and elegant strand.

Jewelry for Tribal Elegance

Krobo Glass & Moroccan Pendant Necklace

Powder glass beads are made by the Krobo People of Ghana, West Africa. Glass is crushed into a fine powder and heated so that the particles fuse together. It is then poured into clay molds with a cassava leaf stem used to make the hole, fired in an oven which fuses the glass and burns away the stem, leaving a hole for stringing. This technique has been used in Africa for centuries.

The red polka-dot beads are Venetian, these particular ones being late 19th to ealry 20th century. They are prized by Ethiopian priests who use them in prayer pendants. The solid red beads are mid-20th century, and uncommon to be found in circulation. The Moroccan silver pendant is a traditional style worn by women, usually strung in multiples. The concentric circles symbolize the endlessness of chance and life.

White Glass & Red Bead Necklace

Frosted white glass rings, produced by the Dutch in the 19th and early 20th centuries, are called ‘Dogon donuts’ after the Dogon people of Mali who fancied them for their simplicity. They were worn by priests for status and ceremony. The clear faceted beads are from Bohemia, in a variety of styles of the 1800s. Several of them show extreme age and wear.

The Venetian polka-dot bead is a favorite kind used by Ethiopian priests in prayer pendants. The hollow silver spheres from mid-20th century Guatemala, were made using a traditional method of silver-work. Known as wedding beads, they are draped in multiple strands on the bride by her family and friends for good blessings in the marriage.

Red White Heart & India Silver Coin Collar

Red 'white hearts' are among the most sought after beads by collectors because of their rich hue and white centers. The original name, Cornaline d'Aleppo, comes from their resemblance to aleppo stone, a type of agate used to ward off evil and disease. Made in Venice as early as the 1830's, they were traded in Africa as well as in the Americas. These beads are from the early to mid-20th century. New ones are made today but they do not have the depth of hue of the older beads, and their color is uniform. These older beads have a beautiful variation of hue and evidence of wear.

The red polka-dot beads, prized by Ethiopian priests who used them in prayer pendatns, are nice old ones. The dutch white glass rings are known as 'Dogon donuts', names after the people of Mali who favored them. The silver coins are from 1800's India, during the colonial period under the rule of King George V of England.

The macramé ties of a nylon/linen blend allow the collar to be adjustable in size. The ladders, as they are called, between the rows of white hearts, are contemporary silver from Thailand, polished to a soft finish. This piece looks great with a blouse and jeans, or with a dress for evening wear.

Anima Mundi Art Wear

Welcome to Anima Mundi Art Wear

Original Jewelry Designs created with antique African trade beads
and other elements from around the world.

History of African Trade Beads

The unique history of trade between Africa and Europe is reflected in glass beads known as 'African Trade Beads’. They formed an important element in early trade networks between Europe and Africa as they were made in Europe - particularly Venice, Bohemia and the Netherlands - and used for trade in Africa. The beads were popular in Africa as glassmaking was uncommon there, making the beads unusual and precious. They were particularly valued and sought after in West Africa, where they were often used in the creation of high-status decorative & ritual objects.

The beads' history dates to the 15th century when Portuguese trading ships arrived on the coast of West Africa to exploit its many resources, including gold, ivory, palm oil, and slaves. At that time, glass beads were a major part of the currency exchanged for people and products. The beads proved to be a cheap and efficient means of exploiting African resources, especially as glassmaking technologies were developed in Europe. The beads were used as ballast in slave-trade ships for the outbound trip.

The beads were made in Europe and transported to West Africa initially by Arab traders, over land from North Africa and, beginning around 500 years ago, by European traders in their sailing ships on the triangular trading routes from Europe to West Africa to the West Indies. Over the four centuries that followed, millions of beads were traded to Africa, and by the nineteenth century, European bead makers were producing a wide variety of designs specifically for the African trade. Trade beads varied greatly in design, being produced according to demand once their popularity and value had been discovered. Beads vary from region to region, village to village, resulting in many thousands of different designs.

The success of this form of currency can largely be attributed to the high intrinsic value African people put upon decorative items. Africans often used beads for currency and wealth storage. Social status could be easily determined by the quality, quantity, and style of jewelry worn, creating a high demand for the trade beads in West Africa. The large number of people involved in the manufacture of trade beads, plus the fact that bead-makers and their designs were peripatetic, makes it extremely difficult to attribute a bead to a particular place, maker, or exact date of manufacture. Some designs can be given a more precise provenance through dated sample cards, sample books, and bead catalogues produced by European bead trading houses now held in museum collections.

Sources:
Victoria & Albert Museum
Beads: An Exploration of Bead Traditions Around the World by Janet Coles and Robert Budwig
Magical Ancient Beads by Jamey D. Allen
Personal conversations with dealers from California, Mali, and other parts of Africa